Chasing Jane, Chapter Four: The Pump Room

So the tour begins: In the Footsteps of Jane Austen. The tour lasts, according to my MP3 player, approximately 1 1/2 hours. It will take me to all the places Jane Austen wrote about, enjoyed personally, or were simply important during her time. Well, then, here I go.

First stop is back where I started at Bath Abbey, so I retrace my steps, noting with only mild interest that there are a few more pedestrians in the streets. Never mind, I've loads of time and there's no line at the Roman Baths, so I can stop by later.

I begin in the courtyard of Bath Abbey, parking myself on a bench I close my eyes against the glare of the morning sun and listen to the narrator. He describes a bit of the history of Bath and how Beau Nash brought it into fashion and John Wood the Elder designed all the beautiful Georgian buildings. Thank you, Mr. Wood! I do so love Georgian architecture.

As the narrator winds down, I gather myself together, ready for him to lead me on the next bit of my journey. He leads me out of the courtyard, through the archway, and into Bath Street. From there I follow his directions to the Pump Room.

Surely you have read about the Pump Room? It's where all the fancy ladies and gentlemen went to sip a glass of water from the springs. Mostly because it was fashionable, but also for their health.

The original Pump Room no longer stands, but the picture on the left is of the replacement building that was erected in the same spot around Jane Austen's time. It's closed now, and something more suited to the 21st century has taken it's place.

The Thermae Bath Spa was erected on the site of the old Pump Room and open to the public in 2006. Now visitors to Bath can soak in waters pumped in from the hot springs. They can also enjoy many other delights unknown in Jane Austen's time; mud wraps, massages, facials, saunas and the like.

The air around the Spa is heavy with the scent of the water of Bath. Loaded with minerals, the aroma sticks in the nostrils, the damp permeating the lungs. Strangely it leaves me with a feeling of energy and peace, all at the same time.

I breathe in deeply, smile a bit dreamily, and imagine what the fancy lords and ladies of Georgian England would have thought of this modern use of their precious Pump Room. Shocking.

I almost giggle....